Following the Trails of the Centaurs: Spend One Day in Pelion With Me

The Call of Pelion: Myths, Mountains, and the Aegean

I’ve often said that Pelion might just be Greece’s best-kept secret. Tucked between mountain and sea, it’s a place where lush forests meet crystal-clear coves and traditional villages feel untouched by time. It’s quieter than the islands, offers a more authentic experience than the cities, and is full of surprises: from ancient trails and hidden beaches to warm-hearted locals and unforgettable food. Here’s what one perfect day in Pelion looks like during our retreats:

I’m writing this from Archontiko Stathopoulou, a beautiful neoclassical mansion that’s now a lovingly restored guesthouse—a hidden getaway perched above the sea in Agios Georgios Nileias. This place feels like the beating heart of Pelion: surrounded by olive groves, stone-paved paths, and the sweet scent of figs ripening under the drowsy summer sun.

As I write, summer hasn’t fully made its way here yet. Mornings are still blessedly cool, starting quietly with the soft rustle of leaves and the gentle, faraway sounds of the mountain. We begin our day with a rejuvenating yoga session to gently awaken our joints and warm our bodies, followed by an energy-packed breakfast. Then we’re ready to set off for the day’s adventure.

Today, that meant guiding a hike down the ancient mule trail from the village of Tsagarada all the way to Damouchari. The views along this path are nothing short of spectacular: the Aegean shimmering below, plane trees arched overhead, and the occasional glimpse of a centuries-old chapel hidden among the greenery. Once we reached Damouchari—famous from Mamma Mia! and even more famous, in my opinion, for its pristine pebbled bay—we swapped our boots for paddles and kayaked to Fakistra beach. Fakistra is a secret treasure: a beach so wild and untouched it even has its own waterfall tumbling straight into the sea.

By the time we returned, salty and sun-warmed, it was time to gather for a late lunch at one of Pelion’s beloved tsipouradika—traditional eateries where you sip tsipouro (a local grape spirit strong enough to light a fire in your insides but so, so good after a long hike) and share endless small plates of seasonal delicacies. I always encourage my guests to try tsitsiravla, the tender wild shoots of the pistachio plant, which are found only in this region. These delicate greens taste of the mountains themselves. The whole experience is pure Pelion: local, honest, abundant.

In the afternoon, we enjoy a bit of downtime between activities, which I prefer to spend with a good book in hand. Lately, I’ve found myself leafing through Mythos by Stephen Fry once again—a book I love sharing with guests. It brings to life the legends of Pelion’s mythical centaurs, said to roam these slopes: half-wild and wise, half-human and half-horse. There’s something so fitting about reading those tales in this landscape, where myth still feels close to the surface.

Every visit here teaches me something new about Pelion’s incredible diversity. The villages, with their stone mansions and tiled rooftops, feel frozen in time, yet the people are vibrantly, joyfully modern—and more than happy to welcome you into their homeland with a smile and a homemade treat. The food is seasonal and rich, and the fruit! An endless variety of the best-tasting fruit you’ve ever had drips from every branch: apples, cherries, plums, and more.

It’s a place where life feels full of stories, flavors, nature, and connection. Pelion is an intersection of all the things that make Greece such a treasure trove of discoveries and experiences. I feel so honored to share its secrets with my guests as we walk its paths, year after year.

If Pelion speaks to something in you as it does to me—whether it’s the call of the wild, the pull of myth, or simply the desire to disconnect and reconnect—then come join us. Our autumn retreat is the perfect time to experience this magical corner of Greece: fewer crowds, golden light, and all the depth of the season. Take a look at our upcoming retreat dates and book your spot for the next Pelion adventure.