Unspoiled Greece: Discovering Agrafa

Writing about the “Unwritten”

Yes, Agrafa quite literally means “Unwritten” in Greek, and as its name so rightly suggests it’s an untouched paradise of rugged peaks, dense forests, and remote villages frozen in time. In fact, the pristine beauty of this mountain range has been described by some as the Alps - minus the crowds. 

Nestled in the southernmost reaches of the Pindus mountain range in Central Greece, Agrafa remains one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Recognized by UNESCO as one of the five cleanest regions on the planet, this untouched landscape features dramatic mountain ranges, lush forests, and roaring rivers. Spring and early summer are some of the best times to visit — when wildflowers bloom, temperatures are mild, and the natural world feels more alive than ever, welcoming seekers of tranquility or adventure in equal measure. 

The Mountains of Agrafa

The Agrafa mountains tower majestically over Lake Plastira, offering a breathtaking alpine panorama. These fir-covered slopes are home to wildlife such as bears, wolves, and deer, and serve as grazing grounds for herds of goats and cows in the summer months. Trails like Asprorema — considered one of the most beautiful in Greece —hidden waterfalls, old stone bridges, and alpine meadows such as Niala are only some of the reasons why this region is considered a hiker’s dream.

The Villages of Agrafa

Scattered across the mountain landscape, the villages of Agrafa — including Marathos, Fragkista, Tridentro, Trovato, Epiniana, Monastiraki, Vrangiana, and the central village of Agrafa — exude a quiet, rugged charm to match its resilient populace. Narrow lanes lead to stunning viewpoints, traditional stone houses blend with the forest, and each turn reveals another gem. Highlights include the stone-arched Kamara Bridge near Anthochori or the historic watermill in the same village. 

Lake Plastira

Although it’s one of Greece’s manmade lakes, there’s nothing artificial about Lake Plastira’s beauty: contrary to the mountainous region surrounding it, this lake is quite a popular spot and a getaway favorite among Greeks. 

Surrounded by fir trees and perched at 750 meters above sea level, Lake Plastira is a jewel of the region — tranquil, scenic, and full of life in the spring.  There’s a wealth of sights to explore around the area, including the dam, the Lake Observatory, and the Botanical Garden, and an endless number of outdoor activities available for you to enjoy as well, including pedal boating, canoeing, archery, horseback riding by the lakeside and mountain biking. 

The Agrafiot cuisine: steeped in tradition and local, home-grown ingredients

Agrafa’s culinary identity is deeply rooted in its mountainous terrain and pastoral traditions. Hearty dishes made from local meats and dairy, wild mushrooms, greens, and handmade pies are some of the most well-known staples. Be sure to try:

• Tsalafouti: A Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese made from sheep or goat milk, soft and creamy, served plain, in salads or on top of a warm slice of traditional “village-style”bread.

• Wild mushrooms: hint: mushroom foraging is one of the many activities you’ll get to try if you join us on our new retreat ;)

• Plasto: a savory cornmeal pie with wild greens

• Goat feta made by local nomads: Agrafa is also home to a pastoral community of a local nomadic population called “Sarakatsanoi” known for producing dairy products of unmatched quality and flavour.

• Local wines, especially the dark red “Mavro Mesenikola” named after the village of the same name. 

Montanema Handmade Village

At the heart of this pristine region lies your mountain sanctuary: Montanema Handmade Village. Located just above Anthochori, this eco-friendly retreat is more than a hotel — it’s a hidden village harmoniously integrated into the forest and canyon. 

The breakfast alone is unforgettable, with homemade butter and cheese crafted by the hosts themselves, and (arguably) best of all: after a day of hiking or lake adventures, you will get to unwind in the on-site spa, featuring two pools and a hammam. 

Agrafa has kept its wild, untamed streak unspoiled through the years, making it a haven to all adventurers -- and since at Nefeli Nine we’re always proud to introduce you to some of Greece’s best kept secrets, we couldn’t help but add this hidden gem to our roster of destinations for 2025! Learn more about our new retreat, book your spot and witness Agrafa’s unwritten splendour first-hand.