We most associate Greek cuisine with sun drenched beachside tavernas, but up on the country’s mountainside in Zagorochoria, Epirus, when the temperature drops and the nights get longer, nourishing stews, hearty pies with any type of filling you can imagine, local cheeses, gatherings at tsipouradika (a tsipouradiko is a cozy Greek tavern where tsipouro -a strong spirit- flows freely, paired with small, delicious meze dishes) and of course fragrant sweets dripping in syrup are just the thing to warm the heart!
Simple, but never plain
The Greeks from Epirus have learned to turn the rough, mountainous terrain and winding rivers of their region to their advantage by becoming self-reliant, making the most out of simple, local ingredients and letting that simplicity lead them to creativity as they developed their own, mouthwatering variations to typical Greek specialties. Proud of their region’s history, Epirotes preserve these age-old traditions with care, passing them down from generation to generation, so that lucky visitors like us get to experience them in all their glory. Here are some of their most famous ones:
If you can imagine it, it can probably find its way into an Epirote pie.
From the wild bounty of the mountains -think foraged greens, mushrooms, chestnuts, forest fruits and so much more- to an abundance of locally made cheeses and other products such as the ever present trachanas (a type of pasta made from milk and cracked wheat), everything can be turned into a comforting culinary masterpiece, wrapped into flaky phyllo that is, of course, rolled by hand – an ability that no self-respecting Epirote home cook can go without.
Traditionally made with layers upon layers of phyllo and baked in firewood ovens, these pies come in a myriad of equally delectable iterations. Some of the most well-known are the zymaropita (literally “dough pie”) with a simple yet delicious feta and olive oil filling, the lachanopita or hortopita made with wild greens, trachanopita, prasopita (leek pie) and of course an array of cheese pies, or even pies with a meat filling, typically either chicken or beef. For dessert lovers, sweet pumpkin pie and galatopita (“milk pie”) make for the perfect breakfast treat.
A cheese lover’s paradise
The Zagori region is also known for its deep-rooted cheese-making tradition, producing outstanding cheese varieties from goat’s and sheep’s milk – the most famous of all of course being feta, Greece’s national cheese.
Even among locals, the feta produced in Dodoni is considered one of the best in the country, but this is not all the region is known for:
Another “superstar” among Greek cheeses is Metsovone, known for its unique deep and smoky flavor – a perfect pairing with the first strawberries of the season and a glass of local dry, white wine.
Other types of cheese you can find in the area range from the smooth, salt-free anthotyro and manouri (perfectly paired with honey) to the creamy and strong galotyri and the spicy kefalotyri which is either enjoyed on its own or grated on top of pasta.
All cravings satisfied
A closer look to the local cuisine reveals a seemingly endless and deceptively diverse list of specialties, from the wild mushrooms of the Zagori mountain range, to the fresh eels and trout of the Louros and Acheron rivers, to the hearty lemon and egg soups and trachana stews with shredded feta, there is truly something for everyone.
Wine lovers will also be delighted to discover the PDO wines of the Metsovo area - and your trip wouldn’t be complete without a visit to a tsipouradiko where locals gather to warm up and connect over a glass of tsipouro and meze (typically provided by the kitchen at no extra cost).
What about dessert?
Kadaifi threads dripping with fragrant syrup, the world-famous baklava and other syrup sweets like saragli, walnut and almond pie, and galaktoboureko are some of the decadent treats that perfectly round up a meal or an afternoon coffee with a lovely view of the mountains. If you like your sweets more on the healthier side, traditional spoon sweets made from local fruit preserves make for the perfect sweet but not overly indulgent bite.
Did we whet your appetite? You can enjoy all the above and more, as we take a deep dive into Epirus’ history and culinary tradition in the unforgettable adventure that is our Zagorochoria Trekking trip.
Join us in a fantastic location in northwestern Greece, nestled within the unparalleled beauty of a complex of no less than 46 traditional villages, and explore the best of what the area has to offer.
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